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The Log of Royal Sounder
by Capt. Linda Lewis
Linda Lewis, the keynote
speaker at the Inside Passage Seminar in 2005 and 2006,
recently received her 100-ton Coast Guard license. Linda
is taking her and her husband Dave's boat, the M/V Royal
Sounder, north to Hakai Recreation Area in British Columbia.
Dave couldn't join Linda on the first part of the trip,
so two young men (Art and Al) from the Coast Guard Auxiliary
have joined her as crew. Linda will be sending us updates
of her voyage. They are posted here with the most recent
report listed at the bottom of the page.
May
28, 2006
Saturday we slipped our
lines at sunrise and found a bit of choppy water crossing
Rosario Str. After that it was all smooth sailing the
rest of the day.
We did a Ch 13 call to
our Capt friend on the Ferry because we knew he was on
the water in the San Juans that day. We spoke twice and
even showed our good boating citizenship as we turned
broadly to port to allow his passage as he pulled out
of the Humphrey Head dock. We waved to one another as
we passed and he wished us well and advised me to "...keep
the round side down." Thanks Greg!
Al drove us across the
International Line and wanted to know where the red stripe
in the water was. We made our goal of Montague Hbr by
early afternoon and picked up a mooring buoy.
Art and Al are wonderful
shipmates. They are enthusiastic and trustworthy crew.
They are also willing to do things 'my way' not because
they are the "right" way or the only way - but
just because my routines work and are comfortable to me.
Good men! I really appreciate them.
So far my one "duh"
has been that I tried to take the Bedwell Customs dock
with me upon departing. The guys are so good about "...
you don't release dock lines until the helmsperson says
so..." that only one dock line got released. I forgot
to say "release" the other two and the guys
waited for my call. They thought maybe I was doing a spring
line routine. I was in fact doing a 'duh.' They were very
gracious about it.
We had a great classic
case of CBDR (constant bearing decreasing range) - a collision
course - with a huge freighter in Boundary Pass. Should
we divert course right now? We dialed up the EBL line
and range circle on the radar and they watched the radar
closely. They made their decision to hold course and as
the freighter closed in it began to inch ahead on the
EBL line and we knew we were home free. No need to change
our course after all.
Al stretched my cruising
envelope by coaxing me into going through the Pender Canal.
It is narrow, shallow at 0 tide, and most important, it
has a 27' clearance bridge. Our mast is 22' above the
water line. We were at low tide after clearing Customs
at Bedwell (quick and easy by phone; no personnel present).
We did a careful chart check and thought it looked doable;
Douglass and Waggoner said it was doable but be careful.
OK - let's go.
We did fine. However, it
sure is narrow in there and dogleggy. I forgot to do a
securite call before going through. Since I was already
into it and concentrating on my path and the depth sounder,
I gave 5 quick blasts instead. I must say I wasn't thrilled
to see a fleeting second of 1.3' under the keel at one
point. (Al got a picture of the depthsounder.) Oh well,
it made me feel like I was back at Skyline's entrance
again!
May 29, 2006
1600: Docked at Discovery
Hbr Marina in Campbell River
Plan:
Depart 5-30-Tues 1200
Transit Seymour Narrows at afternoon slack.
Anchor at Port Neville
MMT score: 1000
We started out from Nanaimo
at 0530 to get as much a jump on the wx as we could. "Evening"
winds were predicted to rise to SE 10-20 K. We expected
to be running against the current for much of the morning.
We also knew we would be
facing a flood (down) current at Cape Mudge and the wx
report meant we could see rising SE winds by the time
of the day we were to arrive there. That always raises
caution signs as the seas right at Cape Mudge get very
snarfy in those conditions. We decided the picture looked
good enough in general with possibly one or two hours
of rougher seas aproaching Mudge. Go for it.
We had a great run. We
were once again reminded that tide and current predictions
are just that: "predictions." We actually had
a following current for most of the 10.5 hour run so we
made better than our projected time. That made us very
happy because it meant beating the rising evening winds
a bit.
Of course, when we got
to (sunny) Cape Mudge that is where the real helm work
started. It was a moderate mix-master scene with 2-3 foot
"confused" seas. Al had been taking a snooze
on the setee but when I rolled the boat a bit he leaped
up like a scalded cat. "What the h..?"
We watched the bow when
I caught one wave head-on and as the bow dipped into the
trough we estimated that one to be about a four footer.
That was the only one like that though and our mix-master
area lasted for only about 30 minutes. Serendipitously
(honest) it was my turn at the helm through that stretch.
I have to admit I was glad of that because I am very familiar
with the boat and have experience steering those kinds
of seas. However, I am sure the guys will get there chance
for a helm challenge like that further along the road.
No Cassie, Grandma did
not do a "bell-ringer." (A roll that is big
enough to cause the ship's bell to clang.) And no drawer-poppers
either.
On the first day of this
trip the crew navigated without the elctronic charting
- to challenge themselves. Yesterday I devised a new form
of torture and suggested no electronic charting AND NO
GPS! Now watcha gonna do? They were game.
They drove most of the
day from the flybridge with charts and compass binoculars
in hand trying to pick out land masses, nav aids, etc
to do LOPs (lines of position) and plot their actual positions.
(We also checked a number of their LOP positions against
the (unavailable-to-them) GPS to check their accuracy.
I kept the laptop on (with the screen covered) so they
could check their actual track-line later.
The Str of Georgia is not
an easy place to do this kind of piloting - which is of
course why I picked it. What island is that? Where am
I? Am I on the best course? They admitted at one point
they didn't know where they were (specifically), which
is just exactly what all the rest of us have experienced.
It's HARD to figure out what you are looking at on the
water. It gave them a real taste of what it is like to
do traditional paper charting and feel the frustrations
of not knowing for sure exactly where you are. Our GPS
and electronic charting addictions are strong!
How did they do? Fabulous.
Their track-line matched my laid-out laptop course almost
perfectly. They are super mariners.
In a future wified email
I will send some pictures. One of them is of me with my
head under the cloth sneaking a peek at the laptop screen
(you know, like the old photographers had to do). I'll
have to propose this method as a new Navigation teaching
technique.
But yesterday wasn't all
work. Art is particularly quick to see eagles and point
out the glories of our surroundings. We have enjoyed good
companionship and good wx for our start. Can't ask for
much more.
Al will be taking us through
Seymour Narrows - a first for him. I'll be sure to take
a picture of him yawning because he has (boringly) gone
through at just the right time.
June 4, 2006
To go from Port Neville
to Lagoon Cove Marina, Al negotiated us through a channel
that is best done during slack (Chatham Channel). He had
to use the range markers at each end to keep us right
in the center of the channel. He did an absolutely perfect
job.
As I radioed in for dock
space at Lagoon Cove Marina, I asked if I was speaking
to Bill (the owner). He said, "...yes, and am I speaking
to the songbird?" One year I had brought my guitar
and done some campfire singing. He has an amazing memory.
(And he is a very good businessman who treats his customers
very well.)
We had the usual very fun
time at Lagoon. Happy Hour shrimp feed was with pleasant
people and we laughed at the marina owner's great bear
stories. We met the couple (Dee and Marshall Saunders)
whose sailboat was run over by a freighter. They lived
to tell about it in their book "Unsinkable."
An amazing story. (I tried to recruit her into Women Aboard
as they now live on Whidbey Island.)
We had launched the dinghy
while at Lagoon Cove so we were towing her as we left.
Al took the helm for his watch after I got us away from
the dock. At one point he looked back and said: "the
dinghy!!!" It was floating about 200 feet behind
us. We did a quick turn back, got the boat hook out and
snagged her painter. Tied her up good this time. The maneuver
was a bit like picking up a mooring buoy, except we had
to be sharp about not snagging the 50-foot floating painter
line in our props in the process! Al drove up to the painter,
I hooked the painter line with the boat hook and hauled
on it like mad while Al put Royal Sounder in reverse.
Mission accomplished.
Art had laid out the course
for Thurday's trip on electronic nav - his first experience
doing so. It was a twisty, rocky passage (with names like
Beware Passage) we were to make. So guess what? He got
to drive us through that section to see if he got it right.
Yep. Perfect.
We anchored in Shoal Hbr
with Pegasus (Pat & Stew) and Silver Star (Bev &
Jerry) nearby and dinghied over for cocktail hour. Wonderful
socializing with many tips about where to fish and crab
and shrimp.
This morning Art and I
stood outside in silence with coffee cups in hand admiring
the quiet sunny start of the day. He saw the beautiful
vision of the shoreline reflected in the water at low
tide - a totem pole if you turn your head to the side.
We were also treated to a rainbow later in the morning.
We are in God's country for sure.
Art and Al set the shrimp
pot and the crab pots. The pick-up this AM yielded 6 shrimp
and 1 (male) crab. But were they disappointed? Nooooo.
June 20, 2006
Thoughts on Single Handing
As most of you know, I
just got my Captain's License this spring. In some ways
I considered that my 'boating PhD.' And this time
I have had single-handing the boat - doing absolutely
everything myself - has been my Dissertation. So
now the 'boating PhD' is actually real.
What this week has done
for me is validate what was already there. It came as
a surprise to me to realize how utterly comfortable
and at ease I felt with all of the boat tasks. I have
done a lot of grinning and feeling joyful. That first
day I quickly realized what was happening. 'You're
there, Linda. And you have been for a long time.' Now
I really believe it.
I know I must have driven
the guys (crew Art & Al) a little crazy in the
first two weeks of the trip - with my insistence that
things be done a certain way on the boat. My explanation
to them was: I definitely believe there is no single 'right
way,' but this is my/our way on this boat and I know it
works. And, most importantly, I'm comfortable with things
being done this way. That insistence on 'ritual' really
paid off in the single-handing week. I just kept clicking
through the now-familiar, routine steps for doing things.
Regarding boat handling,
the single-hand docking is a piece of cake because I would
just rig lines, fenders, and the dinghy while out in the
bay. Asking for help picking the lines off the railing
and making me fast to the dock always worked. Leaving
the dock was just the reverse. Although yesterday there
was no one around. So... I evaluated the current
and the wind, rigged my lines for a from-the-boat cast
off by me, and slipped away into the day. That certainly
put a grin on my face. The opportunity to consistently
dock the boat in these past weeks has given me much good
practice and some new insights on how to work with my
boat and bring her to the dock exactly the way I want
to. I have long been able to bring her to the dock. But
now I'm getting her there just the way I want to. Practice
practice practice makes the difference.
The anchoring is, of course,
more physical labor. With safety ladder in place, life
jacket on, no gloves on or anything else that could
get caught in the anchor chain, I went through the
steps normally done by two people. I just went more slowly.
Many nights of anchoring with David (the master anchorer)
has made me entirely comfortable with selecting the
spot to put the anchor down and with setting
my anchor (backing away from the anchor)
and evaluating its set (hold). I never dragged nor had
to re-set. Thanks for the good modeling, Davy. In
several anchorages (very calm conditions) I didn't
even have to drive the boat forward over the chain before
starting to bring it up. Patience paid off as I just waited
until the boat moved around and settled over the
chain again. I just 'listened' to the boat. Only one anchorage
prompted a lot of back and forth to the helm to drive
up over the chain because of wind and current and numerous
boats around me. I just didn't try to hurry. Even going
down in the v-berth to pull the chain down into the chain
locker worked fine. Just more work than with two people.
Took more time; no problem.
Cruising on the water meant
only one set of eyes for logs and traffic. The real challenge
there is not to get bored and distracted on longer legs.
(Five hours was my longest day.) With courses laid out
on Nobeltec, paper charts at hand, and long-practiced
helm vigilance, the going was easy.
I feel blessed that the
weather was good and there were no untoward boat systems' problems.
This was a great boating experience for me. My daughters
and David all trusted that I would do OK. But they also
all urged me to be very careful.
From the Douglasses: Bravo to Captain
Linda! She's really earned her title.
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