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Monthly Mail
Hi
Don,
In several arts and craft/gift shops
and galleries I have seen art work and sculptures which
depict stone/rock formations that are very similar
to the rock formation we saw in Sutherland Bay.
The Cederbergs took a good photo of it (see photo on the
right). The shops identify these formations as Inukshuks,
an Indian marker used for several purposes. The
link below is one web site which describes them and there
seemed to be many more sites. I'm obviously no expert
but the shape of the rocks seem the same as the upper
portions of Inukshuks so maybe we should claim that we
discovered an Inukshuk!
Ken Klett
http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/index.cfm?PgNm=ArchivedFeatures&Params=A29
Hi Don and Réanne,
We are back from our two month cruising holiday and have
posted leg six of our journey on our website. It’s
back to work and reality now for us and it is a difficult
transition. I can’t wait until we are back
out on the water again for Christmas holidays, likely
over to the Gulf Islands if the Strait of Georgia is willing.
If you would like to see our log please click here
Sea Foam
Hope all is well with you and your summer
holidays were as much fun as ours!
Take care and hope to hear from you
soon.
Carol-Ann Giroday and Rick Leblanc
Mission, BC
MV Sea Foam
www.writefromthesea.com
Don and Réanne:
We did get to run the Inside Passage
this summer from Anacortes (Cap Sante) to Skagway and
back in our 25 footer, The Other Woman. We buddy boated
with The Evening Star (Carole and Sonny Miller from Anchorage)
from Port Neville to Ketchikan, then the rest on our own.
It truly was the trip of a lifetime - 83 days on the water.
Other than regular oil changes, fuel filters, replacing
two batteries, recaulking the roof and replacing the power
steering belt, it was without problems. Your advice on
preparation at the seminar was the single most important
piece of information that you gave us.
We
loved the harbor system that Alaska uses where one person
controls slips at all the harbors in town. That sure saves
time. All harbor masters (BC included) were friendly and
very accommodating.
Our favorite harbor was a tossup between
Elfin Cove and Pelican. We loved Rose's and the Lisianski
Inlet Cafe - the best mushroom burgers in "the southeast".
Our favorite cruising spots were Point
Adolphus (the whales!), Seymour Narrows ( 8.5 Kts. and
the unforgettable whirlpools!), Sergius Narrows (we "crab-walked"
through), and the icebergs in Tracy Arm.
Making our way into the back harbor
at Angoon in heavy rain against 6 knots was our most trying
experience, but the salmon fishing outside of the entrance
was awsome!
The people we met along the way were
wonderful, both on shore as well as other cruisers.
The single most helpful bit of information
in your books were your tips on where and how to anchor
in the various coves and inlets. It was my biggest concern
before we left but I soon felt comfortable "on the
hook".
Thanks for a great seminar. We loved
Alaska and BC and hope to see you all again next summer.
Ross & Terry Patrick
The Other Woman
HI Don,
I wanted to share a recent experience
that occurred at the Port Angeles Marina.
This experience correlates with the Inside
Passage News Article "After the Splash - How to Get
Back Aboard".
We had traveled from Ilwaco, WA. to Port
Angeles on Port Madison, my 57' Monk Design Trawler on
Saturday June 3, 2006. After an 18 hour trip up the coast
and down the straits to Port Angeles we secured the boat
at the guest dock in Port Angeles Marina. The crew and
I had dinner and an early bedtime. I got up the next morning,
walked out on the back deck and stepped off on the guest
dock to check the bow and spring lines. When I stepped
on the swim platform I felt my right foot slip and knew
I was going into the water. I leaned my body toward the
water behind the boat so I would not hit the dock. In
doing so I banged my right chin against the swim platform
and put a knot the size of a grapefruit on the bone. And
of course black and blue almost from my knee to the end
of my toes. In fact the knot is about the size of a peach
today.
When I hit the water I began hollering
for the other crew members who were either sleeping or
in the head. No one heard me, but I had installed a self-deploying
four-rung swim ladder under the swim platform. My original
intent for this ladder for swimming in Mexico and other
warmer waters, not swimming in the Pacific Northwest or
Port Angeles Marina, I pulled the ladder out and down
climbed up and did a strip show on the back deck. No one
threw money or cheered.
I agree with the author's comment in
the article "Examining many boats, I see too many
deficient in reboarding equipment". If I had not
installed the swim ladder under the swim platform I might
have gone into hypothermia before any of the crew missed
me. Was I wearing a PFD? No. Lesson learned.
Another piece of equipment I recently
ran across is the SAVE-A-SOUL EMERGENCY LADDER by C. Sherman
Johnson Co. Inc. and found on their website www.cshonson.com.
I purchased this ladder and carry it on the side of my
boat when the swim step con not be used for various reasons.
This ladder is primarily made for sailboats but easily
adapted to powerboats, a crafty person could make one
in a home workshop fairly quickly.
I really enjoy your informative website.
Weldon Burton
(Queen Charlotte Islands)
John Alexander and Cheryl Fortier of M/V Sovereign
wrote:
We'd like to add our name to
the long list of coastal travelers who are grateful
to you for your "Exploring..." series.
They made our trip to Haida Gwaii much easier, safer
and more interesting - we used one or the other of your
books every day of the trip, and virtually everyone
we met on the way was doing the same. Thank you.
We replied:
Thanks so much for your nice
comments and your continued support. We're happy that
you appreciate our Expect Local Knowledge and we think
your 2005 trip report to the Queen Charlotte Islands
is excellent. We would like to pass out your report
at our Advanced Inside Passage Seminar to be held March
25-26, 2006, since this is one of the key areas we'll
be discussing in detail.
[John and Cheryl have set a new standard
for cruising logs on the web. Don't miss their website
documenting M/V Sovereign's summer 2005 cruise
to the Queen Charlotte Islands. Cheryl and
John live aboard their vessel in Spruce Harbour, a terrific
liveaboard co-op in False Creek, Vancouver, where many
of the residents are very active cruisers. At least two
have completed circumnavigations, and many have South
Pacific, Alaska and/or Charlottes trips under their collective
belts.]
We had a delightful time on Baidarka when we
visited Kodiak. However, we did feel that the harbor was
not yet ready to welcome and accommodate pleasure craft.
Although, the cruising world hasn't yet "discovered"
the beauties of the region due to its remoteness, the
numbers of seasoned cruising boaters has increased over
the past five years. Marty Owen, Kodiak's foresighted
harbormaster is trying to remedy the conditions in the
city's harbor. After a recent phone call discussing ideas
for the harbor, Marty emailed us:
Kodiak—the best commercial fishing port in Alaska;
a world-class yacht destination; the boat repair capital
for the Gulf of Alaska.
Although a handful of transient vessels visit Kodiak
every summer, our city has never been marketed as a
yacht destination. However, those boaters who do call
in Kodiak are amazed at our great harbor facilities,
marine-service providers, museums, and retail stores.
Last summer three large sailing yacht owners [Leonore
(80'), Shaman (88') and the Diablesse (92')] were overjoyed
to have repairs to their hydraulic steering, electronics,
engine and electrical systems done after a crossing
from the South Pacific. One owner said: "Marty,
I'm very impressed with the caliber of maritime support
in Kodiak. I never expected it way up here."
Nautical book publishers, Don and Réanne Douglass
from Anacortes, Wash., motored into Kodiak a couple
years ago on their modest 42' motor cruiser and were
most impressed with Kodiak. "Marty, your harbor
is magnificent, but it's only half full. Why don't you
get the word out about this place and fill these slips
for the summer?" I was at a loss for words, explaining
that most of the slips are rented and that they would
be occupied again by mid-September. Don went on: "Kodiak
is a great destination and accommodating summer cruisers
is a significant untapped market. Boaters are looking
for places like this." He said enthusiastically.
"There are hundreds of yachts in the Pacific Northwest
(PNW) capable of transiting the Gulf of Alaska to Kodiak."
He explained that they are much more likely to cross
the Gulf nowadays because they have electronic navigation
aids, improved weather forecasts, and satellite phones.
Don was amazed that Kodiak isn't actively marketing
its harbor facilities, services, restaurants, museums,
bars and shops.
The Douglass' author seven different cruising guides
where they identify over 6,000 anchorages and harbors
between San Diego and Dutch Harbor. Their guides include
diagrams, descriptions of harbor facilities, and amenities
that boaters need. It's the recreational version of
NOAA's venerable Coast Pilot and nearly every boat has
copies of both publications in the wheelhouse. As a
result of their trip to Kodiak, the Katmai coast and
Kodiak Island will be included in the Douglass's eighth
boater's guide to be on sale next year.
Several coastal communities benefit already from recreational
cruisers, especially those on the Inside Passage. Places
like Sitka, Ketchikan, Juneau, Wrangell and Petersberg
are sitting gold mines . . . and nuggets are lying all
over their harbors. The progressive communities are
capitalizing on the opportunity. In contrast, Kodiak
gets few transient yachts, yet vessels that do make
the crossing, are ecstatic with Kodiak's beauty and
its facilities. I frequently observe them buying fuel
and groceries, enjoying our restaurants, going sport
fishing on charter boats and flight seeing with air-taxi
operators.
Not long ago, the City of Craig, located on the Gulf-side
of Prince of Wales (POW) Island, was significantly impacted
when the lumber industry collapsed, followed by halibut
IFQs and low salmon prices. Like Kodiak, Craig is NOT
on the Inside Passage, and recreational vessel port
calls were sporadic. In 2000, the harbor experienced
a noticeable downturn and the shops were suffering as
well.
That summer, Don and Réanne Douglass made a trip
to Craig. They were aware of the fantastic scenery and
the established services and facilities Craig had to
offer. They generously offered space in their then-upcoming
guide Exploring Southeast Alaska. Craig Harbormaster
Mike Kampnich jumped at the chance to write an article
which the Douglass' included in their guide.
Their guide is a $70 hardback book that stays in the
wheelhouse. It is never tossed out with the newspapers
and provides continuing exposure for Craig year after
year.
The Douglass' also planted the seed for promoting SE
Alaska at the Seattle Boat Show. Juneau was also looking
for ways to expand their market too. Mike Kampnich reported
this opportunity to Juneau's city mayor, council and
administrator who knew they had to expand their economic
base and had nothing to lose by inviting recreational
boaters. So Craig joined forces with Juneau and began
attending the Seattle Boat Show held in mid-January
every year. As a result, Craig's "transient vessel
days" have doubled from 500 in 2000 to over 1000
in 2004 - that's a 100 percent increase in just four
years! Not only is the harbor doing better, but also
the rest of the town is thriving all summer. The restaurants,
shops, marine chandleries, and bars that were struggling,
have survived and are viable again.
Mike says, "Boaters are hungry for new locations
without the hoards of tourists along the Inside Passage.
They want to see unspoiled Alaska, meet real Alaskans
and feel like they are welcome." He went on to
explain, "Craig hasn't sold out to recreational
boaters, but their presence keeps the doors open so
we can support our local fishing fleet. Everyone exists
in harmony."
Some vessels stay a couple days; others base in Craig
all summer and invite different parties of family and
friends to join them; some spend thousands of dollars
for groceries and fuel—a significent economic
boost to Craig's economy.
Marty Owen
Kodiak Harbormaster
mowen@city.kodiak.ak.us
We responded:
Good luck Marty, we love Kodiak and
feel that the island and city have tremendous potential
for both cruising boats and kayakers.
One of our correspondents, wrote us:
"By the way, Kodiak goes out of
their way to antagonize boaters. They charge per
day starting at midnight so that every boat that stays
overnight effectively pays for two nights. In
Seward, we ran into a sailboat cruising the world and
they mentioned that as the first comment when discussing
Kodiak. You might mention to the harbormaster
that if he wants cruisers to refer boats to Kodiak
instead of chasing them away, they need to be more accommodating.
We have never heard of that type of charge being applied
anywhere else."
We forwarded these comments to Marty
Owen, who replied that he is trying to remedy the situation:
"The Kodiak method for calculating
charges for transient vessels that drop in for a day
or two is certainly out of the norm and not very welcoming.
It's like paying for two nights at a hotel an only being
there one night. I'll get it fixed.
This problem hasn't been an issue when Kodiak was isolated
and rarely had a visitor. What the cruiser didn't
tell you is: Transient moorage is free after the
first 60 days."
[Be sure to visit Marty's website at
www.kodiak-alaska-dinner-cruises.com.]
(El Capital Island, Alaska ref: Exploring Southeast Alaska)
From Correspondent, Carl Cederberg, C's Affairs
Ron and Barbara Fitztgerald of Ketchikan (tel: 907.247.1201)
have acquired the wharf, residence and old fox farm facility
over the past winter. New Tokeen Cove entrance is off
El Capitan Passage at 55°56.15'N, 133°19.79'W.
The mooring floats and wharf are slightly east into the
cove at 55°56.20'N, 133°19.60'W on Chart 17403.
This is a quiet little cove nestled in a snug harbor on
the west side of El Capitan Island, about 16 miles southwest
of the U.S. Forestry Service floats for the El Capitan
Caves. The Fitzgeralds are now in the process of refurbishing
the wharf, floats and boardwalk and will be able to handle
five or six 40' to 55' vessels in 2006. Power or water
is not yet available. Depths at the floats range from
16 feet to 60 feet.
Carl and Carole recommend this as a nice quiet stop on
the route from Craig or Port Alexander to the El Capitan
Cave.
(Blair Island, Fitz Hugh Sound, ref: Exploring the North
Coast of British Columbia)
From Correspondent, Carl Cederberg, C's Affairs
Chart 3921; anchor: 51°35.54'N, 127°49.53'W
We anchored halfway between the drying rock and the 6-Tree
Islet at the entrance to the small southeast bay. We set
out 175 feet of chain rode in 13 fathoms over a mixed
bottom and seemed to lay stationary all night with our
bow pointed toward the 6-Tree Island, regardless of the
breeze or current.
This is an excellent anchorage for one ore two modest-sized
vessels. More would necessitate shore ties. we dined late
in the evening in a brilliant sunset accentuated by developing
sea fog out in Fitz Hugh Sound. Eagles, herons and kingfishers
provided the background music.
We were awakened early in the morning to the "blowing"
of a Humpback whale feeding within a hundred yards of
our vessel. Later, during breakfast, a log that lay between
our boat and the No-Tree Islet to the north, "blew"
to signify our friend was resting after his busy morning
feed.
This is truly a magical place if you seek a quiet night
off the beaten track.
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