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What's an Inukshuk?


Hi Don,

In several arts and craft/gift shops and galleries I have seen art work and sculptures which depict stone/rock formations that are very similar to the rock formation we saw in Sutherland Bay.  The Cederbergs took a good photo of it (see photo on the right).  The shops identify these formations as Inukshuks, an Indian marker used for several purposes.  The link below is one web site which describes them and there seemed to be many more sites.  I'm obviously no expert but the shape of the rocks seem the same as the upper portions of Inukshuks so maybe we should claim that we discovered an Inukshuk! 

Ken Klett

http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/index.cfm?PgNm=ArchivedFeatures&Params=A29


Log of MV Sea Foam


Hi Don and Réanne,
 
We are back from our two month cruising holiday and have posted leg six of our journey on our website.  It’s back to work and reality now for us and it is a difficult transition.  I can’t wait until we are back out on the water again for Christmas holidays, likely over to the Gulf Islands if the Strait of Georgia is willing.  If you would like to see our log please click here Sea Foam

Hope all is well with you and your summer holidays were as much fun as ours! 

Take care and hope to hear from you soon.

Carol-Ann Giroday and Rick Leblanc
Mission, BC
MV Sea Foam
www.writefromthesea.com


From the Other Woman


Don and Réanne:

We did get to run the Inside Passage this summer from Anacortes (Cap Sante) to Skagway and back in our 25 footer, The Other Woman. We buddy boated with The Evening Star (Carole and Sonny Miller from Anchorage) from Port Neville to Ketchikan, then the rest on our own. It truly was the trip of a lifetime - 83 days on the water. Other than regular oil changes, fuel filters, replacing two batteries, recaulking the roof and replacing the power steering belt, it was without problems. Your advice on preparation at the seminar was the single most important piece of information that you gave us.

We loved the harbor system that Alaska uses where one person controls slips at all the harbors in town. That sure saves time. All harbor masters (BC included) were friendly and very accommodating.

Our favorite harbor was a tossup between Elfin Cove and Pelican. We loved Rose's and the Lisianski Inlet Cafe - the best mushroom burgers in "the southeast".

Our favorite cruising spots were Point Adolphus (the whales!), Seymour Narrows ( 8.5 Kts. and the unforgettable whirlpools!), Sergius Narrows (we "crab-walked" through), and the icebergs in Tracy Arm.

Making our way into the back harbor at Angoon in heavy rain against 6 knots was our most trying experience, but the salmon fishing outside of the entrance was awsome!

The people we met along the way were wonderful, both on shore as well as other cruisers.

The single most helpful bit of information in your books were your tips on where and how to anchor in the various coves and inlets. It was my biggest concern before we left but I soon felt comfortable "on the hook".

Thanks for a great seminar. We loved Alaska and BC and hope to see you all again next summer.

Ross & Terry Patrick
The Other Woman


Man Overboard!


HI Don,

I wanted to share a recent experience that occurred at the Port Angeles Marina.

This experience correlates with the Inside Passage News Article "After the Splash - How to Get Back Aboard".

We had traveled from Ilwaco, WA. to Port Angeles on Port Madison, my 57' Monk Design Trawler on Saturday June 3, 2006. After an 18 hour trip up the coast and down the straits to Port Angeles we secured the boat at the guest dock in Port Angeles Marina. The crew and I had dinner and an early bedtime. I got up the next morning, walked out on the back deck and stepped off on the guest dock to check the bow and spring lines. When I stepped on the swim platform I felt my right foot slip and knew I was going into the water. I leaned my body toward the water behind the boat so I would not hit the dock. In doing so I banged my right chin against the swim platform and put a knot the size of a grapefruit on the bone. And of course black and blue almost from my knee to the end of my toes. In fact the knot is about the size of a peach today.

When I hit the water I began hollering for the other crew members who were either sleeping or in the head. No one heard me, but I had installed a self-deploying four-rung swim ladder under the swim platform. My original intent for this ladder for swimming in Mexico and other warmer waters, not swimming in the Pacific Northwest or Port Angeles Marina, I pulled the ladder out and down climbed up and did a strip show on the back deck. No one threw money or cheered.

I agree with the author's comment in the article "Examining many boats, I see too many deficient in reboarding equipment". If I had not installed the swim ladder under the swim platform I might have gone into hypothermia before any of the crew missed me. Was I wearing a PFD? No. Lesson learned.

Another piece of equipment I recently ran across is the SAVE-A-SOUL EMERGENCY LADDER by C. Sherman Johnson Co. Inc. and found on their website www.cshonson.com. I purchased this ladder and carry it on the side of my boat when the swim step con not be used for various reasons. This ladder is primarily made for sailboats but easily adapted to powerboats, a crafty person could make one in a home workshop fairly quickly.

I really enjoy your informative website.

Weldon Burton


Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands)
 
John Alexander and Cheryl Fortier of M/V Sovereign wrote:

We'd like to add our name to the long list of coastal travelers who are grateful to you for your "Exploring..." series.  They made our trip to Haida Gwaii much easier, safer and more interesting - we used one or the other of your books every day of the trip, and virtually everyone we met on the way was doing the same. Thank you.

We replied:

Thanks so much for your nice comments and your continued support. We're happy that you appreciate our Expect Local Knowledge and we think your 2005 trip report to the Queen Charlotte Islands is excellent. We would like to pass out your report at our Advanced Inside Passage Seminar to be held March 25-26, 2006, since this is one of the key areas we'll be discussing in detail.

[John and Cheryl have set a new standard for cruising logs on the web. Don't miss their website documenting M/V Sovereign's summer 2005 cruise to the Queen Charlotte Islands. Cheryl and John live aboard their vessel in Spruce Harbour, a terrific liveaboard co-op in False Creek, Vancouver, where many of the residents are very active cruisers. At least two have completed circumnavigations, and many have South Pacific, Alaska and/or Charlottes trips under their collective belts.]


Is Kodiak Ready for Pleasure Craft?

We had a delightful time on Baidarka when we visited Kodiak. However, we did feel that the harbor was not yet ready to welcome and accommodate pleasure craft. Although, the cruising world hasn't yet "discovered" the beauties of the region due to its remoteness, the numbers of seasoned cruising boaters has increased over the past five years. Marty Owen, Kodiak's foresighted harbormaster is trying to remedy the conditions in the city's harbor. After a recent phone call discussing ideas for the harbor, Marty emailed us:

Let's Promote Kodiak!

Kodiak—the best commercial fishing port in Alaska; a world-class yacht destination; the boat repair capital for the Gulf of Alaska.

Although a handful of transient vessels visit Kodiak every summer, our city has never been marketed as a yacht destination. However, those boaters who do call in Kodiak are amazed at our great harbor facilities, marine-service providers, museums, and retail stores.

Last summer three large sailing yacht owners [Leonore (80'), Shaman (88') and the Diablesse (92')] were overjoyed to have repairs to their hydraulic steering, electronics, engine and electrical systems done after a crossing from the South Pacific. One owner said: "Marty, I'm very impressed with the caliber of maritime support in Kodiak. I never expected it way up here."

Nautical book publishers, Don and Réanne Douglass from Anacortes, Wash., motored into Kodiak a couple years ago on their modest 42' motor cruiser and were most impressed with Kodiak. "Marty, your harbor is magnificent, but it's only half full. Why don't you get the word out about this place and fill these slips for the summer?" I was at a loss for words, explaining that most of the slips are rented and that they would be occupied again by mid-September. Don went on: "Kodiak is a great destination and accommodating summer cruisers is a significant untapped market. Boaters are looking for places like this." He said enthusiastically. "There are hundreds of yachts in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) capable of transiting the Gulf of Alaska to Kodiak." He explained that they are much more likely to cross the Gulf nowadays because they have electronic navigation aids, improved weather forecasts, and satellite phones. Don was amazed that Kodiak isn't actively marketing its harbor facilities, services, restaurants, museums, bars and shops.

The Douglass' author seven different cruising guides where they identify over 6,000 anchorages and harbors between San Diego and Dutch Harbor. Their guides include diagrams, descriptions of harbor facilities, and amenities that boaters need. It's the recreational version of NOAA's venerable Coast Pilot and nearly every boat has copies of both publications in the wheelhouse. As a result of their trip to Kodiak, the Katmai coast and Kodiak Island will be included in the Douglass's eighth boater's guide to be on sale next year.

Southeast Alaska Has Already Benefited


Several coastal communities benefit already from recreational cruisers, especially those on the Inside Passage. Places like Sitka, Ketchikan, Juneau, Wrangell and Petersberg are sitting gold mines . . . and nuggets are lying all over their harbors. The progressive communities are capitalizing on the opportunity. In contrast, Kodiak gets few transient yachts, yet vessels that do make the crossing, are ecstatic with Kodiak's beauty and its facilities. I frequently observe them buying fuel and groceries, enjoying our restaurants, going sport fishing on charter boats and flight seeing with air-taxi operators.

Not long ago, the City of Craig, located on the Gulf-side of Prince of Wales (POW) Island, was significantly impacted when the lumber industry collapsed, followed by halibut IFQs and low salmon prices. Like Kodiak, Craig is NOT on the Inside Passage, and recreational vessel port calls were sporadic. In 2000, the harbor experienced a noticeable downturn and the shops were suffering as well.

That summer, Don and Réanne Douglass made a trip to Craig. They were aware of the fantastic scenery and the established services and facilities Craig had to offer. They generously offered space in their then-upcoming guide Exploring Southeast Alaska. Craig Harbormaster Mike Kampnich jumped at the chance to write an article which the Douglass' included in their guide.

Their guide is a $70 hardback book that stays in the wheelhouse. It is never tossed out with the newspapers and provides continuing exposure for Craig year after year.
The Douglass' also planted the seed for promoting SE Alaska at the Seattle Boat Show. Juneau was also looking for ways to expand their market too. Mike Kampnich reported this opportunity to Juneau's city mayor, council and administrator who knew they had to expand their economic base and had nothing to lose by inviting recreational boaters. So Craig joined forces with Juneau and began attending the Seattle Boat Show held in mid-January every year. As a result, Craig's "transient vessel days" have doubled from 500 in 2000 to over 1000 in 2004 - that's a 100 percent increase in just four years! Not only is the harbor doing better, but also the rest of the town is thriving all summer. The restaurants, shops, marine chandleries, and bars that were struggling, have survived and are viable again.

Mike says, "Boaters are hungry for new locations without the hoards of tourists along the Inside Passage. They want to see unspoiled Alaska, meet real Alaskans and feel like they are welcome." He went on to explain, "Craig hasn't sold out to recreational boaters, but their presence keeps the doors open so we can support our local fishing fleet. Everyone exists in harmony."

Some vessels stay a couple days; others base in Craig all summer and invite different parties of family and friends to join them; some spend thousands of dollars for groceries and fuel—a significent economic boost to Craig's economy.

Marty Owen
Kodiak Harbormaster
mowen@city.kodiak.ak.us

We responded:

Good luck Marty, we love Kodiak and feel that the island and city have tremendous potential for both cruising boats and kayakers.

One of our correspondents, wrote us:

"By the way, Kodiak goes out of their way to antagonize boaters.  They charge per day starting at midnight so that every boat that stays overnight effectively pays for two nights.  In Seward, we ran into a sailboat cruising the world and they mentioned that as the first comment when discussing Kodiak.  You might mention to the harbormaster that if he wants cruisers to refer boats to Kodiak instead of chasing them away, they need to be more accommodating.  We have never heard of that type of charge being applied anywhere else."

We forwarded these comments to Marty Owen, who replied that he is trying to remedy the situation:

"The Kodiak method for calculating charges for transient vessels that drop in for a day or two is certainly out of the norm and not very welcoming.  It's like paying for two nights at a hotel an only being there one night.   I'll get it fixed.  This problem hasn't been an issue when Kodiak was isolated and rarely had a visitor.  What the cruiser didn't tell you is: Transient moorage is free after the first 60 days."

[Be sure to visit Marty's website at www.kodiak-alaska-dinner-cruises.com.]


New Tokeen Cove (El Capital Island, Alaska ref: Exploring Southeast Alaska)
From Correspondent, Carl Cederberg, C's Affairs

Ron and Barbara Fitztgerald of Ketchikan (tel: 907.247.1201) have acquired the wharf, residence and old fox farm facility over the past winter. New Tokeen Cove entrance is off El Capitan Passage at 55°56.15'N, 133°19.79'W. The mooring floats and wharf are slightly east into the cove at 55°56.20'N, 133°19.60'W on Chart 17403.

This is a quiet little cove nestled in a snug harbor on the west side of El Capitan Island, about 16 miles southwest of the U.S. Forestry Service floats for the El Capitan Caves. The Fitzgeralds are now in the process of refurbishing the wharf, floats and boardwalk and will be able to handle five or six 40' to 55' vessels in 2006. Power or water is not yet available. Depths at the floats range from 16 feet to 60 feet.

Carl and Carole recommend this as a nice quiet stop on the route from Craig or Port Alexander to the El Capitan Cave.


Fifer Bay (Blair Island, Fitz Hugh Sound, ref: Exploring the North Coast of British Columbia)
From Correspondent, Carl Cederberg, C's Affairs

Chart 3921; anchor: 51°35.54'N, 127°49.53'W

We anchored halfway between the drying rock and the 6-Tree Islet at the entrance to the small southeast bay. We set out 175 feet of chain rode in 13 fathoms over a mixed bottom and seemed to lay stationary all night with our bow pointed toward the 6-Tree Island, regardless of the breeze or current.

This is an excellent anchorage for one ore two modest-sized vessels. More would necessitate shore ties. we dined late in the evening in a brilliant sunset accentuated by developing sea fog out in Fitz Hugh Sound. Eagles, herons and kingfishers provided the background music.

We were awakened early in the morning to the "blowing" of a Humpback whale feeding within a hundred yards of our vessel. Later, during breakfast, a log that lay between our boat and the No-Tree Islet to the north, "blew" to signify our friend was resting after his busy morning feed.

This is truly a magical place if you seek a quiet night off the beaten track.

 

 

 InsidePassageNews.com • Herb Nickles, Editor in Chief
Copyright © 2006 Don and Réanne Douglass